Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu Shine at London Fashion Week 2026

Photo: Reuters

London Fashion Week 2026 opened with a mix of creativity and nostalgia, as designers Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu presented striking new collections for spring-summer 2026. The event, held in London from September 18–22, 2025, featured 157 designers and organizations, with 50 runway shows highlighting both emerging talents and established fashion names like Erdem, Roksanda, and Burberry.

Irish designer Paul Costelloe transported audiences to 1960s California with his “Boulevard of Dreams” collection. Inspired by the glitz and glamour of Rodeo Drive in 1967, Costelloe’s designs included short feminine dresses in soft colors like pale pink, yellow, and blue. Many pieces featured pointy collars, bows, and embellishments, while shift dresses and mini skirts were paired with matching platform shoes. Floral and frilly details gave the collection a light and playful feel, reminiscent of the fashion trends from the West Coast of America during the late 1960s.

Costelloe described his collection as “very happy,” noting that it reflected the energy and style of California in the late sixties. The designer cited the classic film and novel “Valley of the Dolls” as a key inspiration, giving the collection a cinematic and romantic touch. The clothes were chic, fresh, and designed to make the wearer feel confident and stylish. The overall look combined elegance with youthful playfulness, making it a standout at the fashion week.

In contrast, Turkish-born designer Bora Aksu focused on a more emotional and symbolic theme. Aksu drew inspiration from broken dolls, creating a collection that celebrated imperfections and resilience. The designs included layered dresses, embroidery, lace trimmings, frills on sleeves, large shiny sequins, and see-through gloves. The models wore bonnet hats tied under the neck, decorated with bows or sequins, adding a delicate, vintage-inspired touch.

Aksu explained that the collection reflected human experiences of struggle and survival. “I feel like we are like the dolls… we have our hearts broken or we go through things. But we still survive, and it becomes part of us,” he told reporters. By embracing the cracks and defects of the dolls, Aksu aimed to show that imperfections can be beautiful and meaningful. His use of layered outfits, tiered dresses, and intricate floral details emphasized the idea of renewal and transformation, turning brokenness into art.

Both designers received praise for their creativity and ability to tell a story through fashion. Costelloe’s cheerful homage to 1960s California and Aksu’s emotional, doll-inspired collection highlighted the diversity and innovation present at London Fashion Week. These collections not only showcased clothing but also reflected culture, history, and personal expression through design.

London Fashion Week continues to be a major platform for the global fashion industry. Designers from around the world use this event to introduce new trends, experiment with textures and silhouettes, and present their visions for the upcoming seasons. The 2026 spring-summer shows included a mix of bright, bold patterns and delicate, intricate detailing, demonstrating that fashion can be both playful and thoughtful.

In addition to the runway shows, the event also offered a space for networking, discussion, and collaboration among designers, stylists, buyers, and fashion enthusiasts. The presence of both emerging designers and established fashion houses created a dynamic atmosphere where creativity and innovation thrived. Fashion week in London plays a vital role in shaping global trends, influencing both high fashion and ready-to-wear collections worldwide.

Overall, the Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu collections exemplified how fashion can tell stories beyond mere clothing. Costelloe celebrated joy, color, and a nostalgic aesthetic, while Aksu explored resilience, imperfections, and emotional depth. Together, these collections captured the essence of London Fashion Week 2026: a mix of creativity, culture, and personal expression.